Dresden for Christmas

Back to the blog! Almost two months since my last post (I think this may become a erratic and sporadic blog, but I won't abandon it--that I promise), I am back! But I'm not writing about Prague!

Exclamation points!

This is my second Christmas in Prague, and while Prague does Christmas well, I knew that this year, I wanted to experience a touch of the famous German Christmas. So, I organized a small group (I organize a lot of small groups) to take the train up to Dresden--just over two hours north of Prague.

Passing the ruined Castle Střekov along the way...I'll make it back in spring.

Dresden this year boasted 9 separate, more or less distinct Christmas markets, 7 of which were within a moments walk of each other and a 10 minute walk of the train station.

From Dresden's municipal website--they know what they're doing.

The central market--the one by the circle on the map, in the Alt Markt is the Striezelmarkt, which was held for the 584th time this year. Yes, 584th.

It is quite a thing. 

The market was originally just, well, a medieval market. Eventually, it became associated with the Christmas bread stollen (think fruitcake, but breadier), which is where it got its name--Middle High German for stollen being "striezel." The Striezelmarkt today, however, features multiple carnival rides, puppet shows, live performances, dozens of stalls, and a general Christmas magic, aided by the wide variety of hot Christmas drinks, most of which will keep you merry and bright for hours. The hot chocolate and kinderpunsch--literally children's punch--are also delicious.

A distinctly German Christmas craft which you can buy at the markets is the Christmas pyramid.

Perhaps the cutest application of the principles of thermodynamics.

These pyramids are really quite clever. The lit candles generate heat, which rises, causing the turbine at the top the spin. The turbine is attached to the central pole, which rotates, causing the platforms, and the little characters on them, to revolve. It's all quite charming and I am definitely buying one for next year.

At the markets, this technique gets employed on a much grander scale, creating pyramids that a several stories high.

Some of those figurines are the size of 2nd graders.

However, there are a few markets that go their own way, opting for a different vibe. One, with an "apres ski" theme, clearly was trying to appeal to younger folks and featured very little aside from bars and clubs with a ski chalet decor. Another goes for a more modern vibe with lots of lights. However, my favorite, and the one that, in my mind, makes Dresden a must visit for Christmas lovers, is the Stallhof Market. The Stallhof is a courtyard that's part of the former royal palace. It normally looks like this...

Still worth a visit for its beauty.

But at Christmas, the Stallhof is transformed into a truly medieval feeling Christmas market--what the Striezelmarkt might have started as.

Including a "bathhouse" featuring a hot tub.

There are no Christmas trees and very few things for the kids. This is Christmas as party--before it got steered into being "family friendly" and about gift exchange--and it's fantastic. It might seem a bit "Disney's German Christmas Adventure"...

I mean, they wear costumes!

...except the Christmas spirit--and the Christmas spirits--and very real. 

The markets are huge tourist draws, and there are often a lot of Czech tourists in addition to Brits, Americans, etc., but as we went on a weekday, we mainly heard German being spoken. Even if all the foreign tourists fell away, these markets would still happen. On a smaller scale, with fewer of them, etc., yes, I have no doubt--but they would happen because they're tradition and they've been part of Christmas. And if any city knows how to keep Christmas well, it's Dresden. I can't wait to go back in 2019.

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